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Selling an EV with a failing or damaged battery
When the range keeps shrinking or the car flags a battery fault, the repair quote is usually the shock. We buy EVs with battery trouble as they are, and pay you at pickup.
- Low range, isolation faults, cell imbalance, failed contactors
- Out of warranty, or a warranty claim that was turned down
- If it sounds like a cheap fix, we'll tell you
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Get a price for your EV
Five quick details and we call you back with a number.
Signs the pack is the problem
- Range at a full charge has dropped well below what it was when you bought the car.
- The charge level jumps around, or falls fast near the bottom.
- The car stops charging before it reaches full, or fast-charging speeds have collapsed.
- Warnings like a high-voltage system fault, a battery service message, or reduced power.
- On a Leaf, capacity bars disappearing from the right side of the gauge.
- The car won't go into Ready or Drive even though the screen comes on.
Not every warning means a dead battery
Before you sell, get a proper diagnosis. A surprising number of "dead battery" EVs turn out to have a tired 12-volt battery, a failed onboard charger, a bad charge port or a software fault. Those are repairs, not a reason to give up on the car. We'd rather you fix a 12-volt problem than sell us a good car cheap.
If the diagnosis does point at the pack, ask for it in writing. It helps with a warranty claim, and it helps us price the car.
Why a new pack costs so much
The battery is the most expensive part of an EV. Some makers only sell complete packs, not individual modules, and the labour to drop a pack and fit a new one is significant. On older or high-kilometre cars, the quote can easily pass what the car is worth.
Most automakers in Canada cover the high-voltage battery for about eight years, often with a kilometre limit. That warranty covers defects and capacity loss beyond a set point, not damage from a crash or a road hazard.
Your options
- Warranty claim. If the car is inside the battery warranty, start here. A denied claim is worth pushing back on once.
- Independent EV repair. Some shops can replace individual modules for less than a dealer pack.
- Used or refurbished pack. Cheaper, but check where it came from and what warranty comes with it.
- Sell it as is. If the numbers don't work, we buy the car with the bad battery and you walk away with cash.
What helps us price it
Year, model and battery size. The range you get at a full charge, or a state-of-health reading if you have one. A photo of any warning on the screen. Whether it still charges at all. Kilometres. That's usually enough for a firm number. See Nissan Leaf, Chevy Bolt and Hyundai and Kia for problems specific to those cars.
Questions about selling with a bad battery
Is an EV with a bad battery worth anything?
Yes. The drive units, electronics, interior and body panels all have value, and many failing packs still have good modules in them. That's why we pay for these cars instead of charging to tow them.
The dealer denied my battery warranty claim. Should I sell?
Ask for the reason in writing and push back once, especially if the car is inside the warranty period. If you're done arguing, we'll buy the car as it is.
Do you buy EVs that only charge partway?
Yes. A car that stops at 60 or 70 percent, or loses range quickly, is one of the most common calls we get.
Can you test my battery?
No. We don't do diagnostics. A dealer or an independent EV shop can read the battery's state of health. Tell us what they found and we'll price the car from there.
Keep reading
Want it gone this week?
Call with the year, model and what happened. We'll ask a few questions about the battery and where it's parked, then give you a number.